Last night’s dinner was excellent. Suzy (German and having 2 rest days for awful blisters), suggested a restaurant with a Pilgrim menu for 11€. Five of us had the best meal we’ve had on the Camino, and the vino tinto was smooth and fabulous. May is Lebanese but has lived and taught in Canada for many years. She teaches four languages and gave me a great run down on the education system in her adopted country.
We said our goodbyes this morning and went to the same restaurant as last night for our desayunos/breakfasts before hitting the road. The path today was 70% natural paths (with cobble type rocks that positioned themselves perfectly on the centre of my blisters, Camino paranoia or what). We took plenty of water with us as we had been warned that there were no stops or Fuentes/water fountains for the first 17k. The weather was much cooler (4C in the morning), with a strong blustery wind which was luckily behind us for most of the day. It was a slog to Caldadilla de la Cueza, where everyone stopped for a hot drink and a boots off rest. The land had been fairly featureless with a path through swathes of young corn for mile after mile. We moved on to an ice-cream stop at Ledigos, which gave us just enough oomph to make it to Terradillos. Birgit was amazing, considering that it’s her first day of walking for many days. Leone was on fire today. She had a new titanium hip 8 years ago and doesn’t let anything stop her, and she’s amazing at finding bars.
It was so good that Richard had booked three beds for us as the Albergue was “completo” when we arrived at 2pm. A poor woman who we consider to have the worst/best blisters on the Camino had to get a taxi to the next village. Today we are officially at the halfway point between St Jean Pied de Port and Santiago.